Wednesday, September 7, 2011

The Good. The Bad. The Oily.

It’s funny how we always want something that we don’t have. If we are short, we wish we were taller, If we are blonde, we wish we were brunette, if we have oily skin, we wish it was dry, if we have dry skin, we wish it was oily. The fact is, regardless of how the cards have been dealt, there are advantages and disadvantages to any situation.

For those with oily skin, there is one key advantage…you will not age as quickly as those of us who have more dry skin condition. The disadvantage of having oily skin; however, sometimes over-shadow the benefits of slower aging. The disadvantages of oily skin include increased frequency in acne breakouts, clogged or congested pores, which can result in acne, blackheads or a condition called mila, decreased durability of your foundation and makeup as well as the appearance of enlarged pores.

The treatment of oily skin can be somewhat counter-intuitive. One would think that to treat oily skin, you should use products that dry the skin’s surface, when, in fact, that is the worst thing you can do. Using products that dry the skin’s surface, or over-exfoliating the skin can actually increase oil production, as the body works overtime to supplement the oil that you are scrubbing away. Over stimulating the skin’s oil glands will result in increased oil production and an increase in the likelihood of breakouts or congested pores.

To treat oily skin, here are a few things to remember:

•Use cleansers that are mild, preferably those that don’t contain sulfates, which can dry the skin. The Skinlogics Clear Cleanser, the BC Spa Facial Cleansing Gel and Cleansing Lotion or the Skinlogics Sensitive Cleanser are all appropriate for those with oily skin. Do not wash the face more than 3 times per day. Over-washing the skin can result in increased oil production.
•Use warm to hot water when washing the face. This will help to breakdown the oil so it is removed more effectively.
•A topical scrub is key for keeping the pores cleared and preventing acne breakouts and regulating oil production. Microdermabrasion (on sale this month!!) is a product that is a key part of your weekly skin regimen, but be sure to scrub no more than 3 times per week. Over-scrubbing the skin can contribute to increased oil production.
•Products containing AHAs, PHAs, or salicylic acid (BHAs) are key to breaking down oil production and keeping the pores cleared of debris that can cause the formation of acne blemishes. The BC Spa Facial Tonics, containing AHAs or PHAs, or the Skinlogics Clear Tonic for those with extremely oily skin are all good choices. The BC Spa Resurface Resurfacing Peel (also on sale this month!!) and the Daily Resurfacing Peel are also great additions to your regimen
•A clay-based mask, such as the BC Spa Detox Detoxifying Clay Mask, will both absorb oil and cleanse the pores (see BC Spa Detox and Purify Facial below).
•It is important to note that products DO NOT increase the size of your pores. Your pores are typically enlarged either due to heredity or skin type. Often, when you begin using a regimen that is effectively cleansing the pores, the pores MAY APPEAR to be larger. This is, in fact, an illusion. When the pores are completely clear, they may become temporarily more visible to the naked eye. Frequent and regular use of an effective skin clearing regimen will keep the pores cleared and they will, in time, shrink in size and become less visible.
•Make retinol a part of your regular nighttime regimen. The use of retinol will help normalize both skin cell production and oil production in the skin. Regeneration Overnight (on sale this month) is the PERFECT choice. Upon initial use of the product, you may notice that your skin appears to be dry and/or flakey, and you may experience some temporary mild topical irritation. This is not a bad thing. With regular and consistent use, the irritation and temporary dryness will be eliminated and you will be left with beautifully radiant skin. To help decrease the risk of irritation, begin using a retinol products every other night and allow the skin to adjust before making it part of your nighttime regimen.
•Choose moisturizers that are not oil-based. Keep in mind that I didn’t necessarily say “oil-free”. There are some ingredients that are legally and technically classified as “oils”, that are indeed not oily at all. If a product is oil based, you will recognize it within the top 5 ingredients on the ingredient statement.
•Use products that contain topical mattifying ingredients. The Skinlogics Clear Mattifying Moisturizer is a great choice for daytime use to help absorb oil in the skin. Products containing silicones are also very effective in absorbing oil and preventing oil breakthrough during the day. BC Spa Resurface Daily Resurfacing Peel, the Cell Block C Multivitamin Capsules and the Secret Agent Natural Primer are all good choices.
•Use sunscreens sparingly. Yes, we all know that sun protection is key to maintaining youthful skin; however, the draw-back to them is that they can make the skin oilier. Physical barrier sunscreens, containing titanium dioxide or zinc oxide work by putting a UV blocking barrier on the skin. This occlusive barrier can cause the skin to be oilier throughout the day. Chemical sunscreens work by penetrating into the skin to absorb UV radiation. These ingredients are typically oilier and can also cause the skin to be oilier. If you have oily skin, use sun protecting moisturizers sparingly…meaning a very small amount. To help reduce that oily feeling, you can apply on top of a product containing silicone as mentioned above or apply on top of a mattifying moisturizer. Many people who have oily skin choose to use a moisturizer without SPF ingredients. The BC Spa Facial Night Cream (also on sale this month!!) is a great AM/PM moisturizer for someone who wants the benefits of anti-aging ingredients in their moisturizer without SPF ingredients.
•Choose a foundation that is oil free. Perfecting Wet/Dry Finish (we can find your perfect shade!!) is a great foundation to choose if you have oily skin. Applied on top of a silicone based product, such as the Secret Agent Natural Primer, Daily Resurfacing Peel or the Cell Block C Multivitamin capsules will help to prolong the wear. Apply by dusting the powder onto the face with a powder brush. This will give you natural coverage and will allow the skin to breathe better than applying with a sponge.
•Oil absorbing Tissues, such as our incredible BeautiControllers, are great for blotting oil during the day. These tissues will not block oil production, but they will absorb the oil on the skin, leaving you shine-free without disturbing your makeup.
•For the occasional blemish, it is always good to keep a targeted spot treatment such as the Skinlogics Clear Spot Treatment Duo. This handy dandy little zit zapper is both portable and highly effective at abbreviating the cycle of a blemish. The gel contains an OTC (over the counter) level of salicylic acid which will help to remove the microscopic covering of the pore and allow the pore to purge toxins as well as offering analgesic benefits to reduce irritation. The lotion side contains a high level of benzoyl peroxide, which is effective at drying the pore. Used in tandem, AM and PM, you will see a dramatic reduction in the breakouts.
BC Spa Detox and Purify Facial:



The Oily Skin Tool Kit:

•A gentle cleanser that is free of sulfates
Microdermabrasion, used no more than 3 times per week
•BC Spa Resurface, Resurfacing Peel
BC Spa Detox Clay Masque to deeply cleanse the pores
•BC Spa Facial Tonic, containing either AHAs or PHAs. For extremely oily skin, the Skinlogics Clear tonic, containing salicylic acid
Skinlogics Clear Mattifying Moisturizer
BC Spa Facial Night Crème
Regeneration Overnight
BC Spa Resurface Daily Resurfacing Peel or Cell Block C Multivitamin Capsules
Secret Agent Natural Makeup Primer
Wet/Dry Foundation
•BeautiControllers – oil absorbing tissues
Skinlogics Clear Spot Treatment Duo

It is very important to remember that people who have oilier skin tend to retain more toxins in the skin. It is not unusual for you to experience breakouts when you start using products that purge the skin’s impurities. When you start using a clay based mask and/or using microdermabrasion, you are increasing the skin’s rate of renewal and purging toxins more quickly. This is a natural process of skin cleansing. If you find that you are breaking out more than you are willing to handle, you can begin by using these products once or twice weekly and increase the frequency as you feel your skin is adjusting.

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